Elderflower lemon cupcakes, meringues, and Rococo Chocolates from London are served alongside Proscuitto and Arugula, Cucumber-Mint Ribbon and Carrot Avocado tea sandwiches. Rectangular and round Annie Glass serving plates with Herend Teapot and cup and saucer from non(e)such.
“There is a great deal of poetry
and fine sentiment in a
cup of tea.”
— Ralph Waldo Emerson
The ancient beverage of tea is made from the dried leaves and buds of the evergreen shrub Camellia sinensis. Steeped in history, tea is indelibly woven into the fabric of everyday American and British life.
Known as “the elixir of life,” tea offers restorative powers and health benefits. Next to water, tea is the most popular beverage in the world. A wise sage from the Song Dynasty (960-1279) counseled tea drinkers in the ways to fully experience tea: “It should be drunk in an atmosphere of leisure, friendship, and sociability.” That is still good advice today.
The Chinese have been growing and drinking tea for nearly 5,000 years. Macao, a Chinese territory, became a colony of the Portuguese empire in 1557 and was the first point of entry for tea trade. Tay, which is Portuguese for tea, soon became a fashionable drink among Portugal’s aristocracy.
The Dutch were equally enthusiastic about tea. In the 17th century, they formed the rival Dutch East India Company and began shipping tea to England from Japan. Green tea was sold in English apothecaries as a curative. It was first served publicly as an object of social and intellectual curiosity in 1657 at Thomas Garraway’s London coffeehouse. Known as “penny universities,” coffeehouses were places for men to drink coffee while engaging in sober discourse and academic learning for the price of one penny. Samuel Pepys wrote in his diary about drinking his first of “Cupp of Tee” in 1660, the year of the Stuart Restoration.
When the British traveled to the Colonies and acquired Dutch New Amsterdam (New York) in 1664, tea was already the city’s beverage of choice. “Tea water men” supplied quality spring water to brew the hot beverage. The tea modes and manners of Europe, influenced by China and Japan, were well established in wealthy Dutch households. Orange pekoe tea, popular today, was named for the Dutch Royal House of Orange. The Dutch did not add milk to tea, but they did add peach leaves and saffron. The non-Chinese Manchu rulers (1644-1912) fortified their black tea with kumis — fermented mare’s milk.
Tea drinking spread throughout the Colonies. Tea, which was expensive, became the social beverage of the upper class. Inviting guests to afternoon tea was a mark of civility and an act of hospitality. Francis S. Drake wrote in Tea Leaves, “Boston ladies carried their own fine, small china teacups, saucers, and spoons to tea parties in the early 18th century.” During a visit to Boston in 1740, Englishman Joseph Bennett said, “… the ladies here visit, drink tea … and neglect the affairs of their families with as good grace as the finest ladies in London.”
Colonial hostesses took pride in owning China teas, the proper tea equipage, and fashionable tea tables, introduced in the late 1600s. Tea service was conducted by the prescribed social rules of London tea etiquette. Following the English style, wealthy Colonial families gathered to have their portraits painted while sipping tea at the tea table. Louis Philippe, the Comte de Ségur, wrote to his French wife, “My health continues excellent, despite the quantity of tea one must drink with the ladies out of gallantry, and of Madeira all day long with the men out of politeness.”
Fifty percent of Colonial households owned a teapot in 1750. China teas purchased by the Colonists included Bohea, one of the earliest black teas brought to Europe. Green tea comprised one-third of the tea imported to the Colonies. Hyson, which was picked in the spring, was particularly fine and a favorite of George Washington and Thomas Jefferson. Singlo was a less popular green tea with large leaves picked later in the season.
The East India Company flooded England’s tea market well into the 18th century. Teas purchased by the Colonists were usually stockpiled in London warehouses for two years, so therefore well past their prime. To help dispose of the surfeit of tea, Parliament passed the Tea Act. This allowed the EIC to export it to the American Colonies, bypassing American merchants, for a bargain basement sale. Trouble was brewing; this act helped fuel the most famous tea event in America: The Boston Tea Party of 1773. The Chinese teas (342 chests) were thrown overboard by the Sons of Liberty. One patriot exclaimed, “Boston Harbor’s a teapot this night!”
The consumption of China tea declined greatly during and immediately following the Revolutionary War. At a post-revolutionary social event in Virginia, an English visitor remarked, “Coffee and Chocolate, but no Tea. This Herb is in disgrace amongst them at present.” Colonial women organized boycotts and campaigned to ban tea from every household. Their teacups now held “Liberty Teas,” freshly brewed from local herbs, edible flowers, tree barks, and dried fruits. However, during the Victorian era, tea regained its position of importance in the American culinary landscape and became an affordable beverage for all classes.
In 1662, Portugal’s Infanta Catherine of Braganza married King Charles II of the House of Stuart. Her taste for tea was adopted by London courtiers, the aristocracy, and upper classes. Queen Catherine would prepare tea for her husband and close friends in a small, elegant “closet” or boudoir that adjoined her bedchamber. The birth of afternoon tea is credited to the seventh Duchess of Bedford, Anna Maria Russell. The customary meals of the day were breakfast followed by dinner at 8 p.m. The duchess was a houseguest at Belvoir Castle around 1840. She experienced a “sinking spell” one afternoon and requested a pick-me-up of tea and snacks to share with friends. Five o’clock tea soon became a regular practice at Woburn Abbey, home of the duchess. Eventually it spread to the growing middle class.
Teatime became more elaborate and moved from the boudoir into the dining room, the drawing room, and the garden.
As tea drinking in London was becoming fashionable in the late 1600s, a stylized type of tea ceremony was developing among the aristocracy and upper class. In the best Chinese tradition, costly porcelain teaware and fine tea accoutrements encouraged admiration of the tea liquor and increased the tea-drinking pleasure. Queen Victoria (1819–1901) widely endorsed the new style of afternoon tea ritual made popular by her lady-in-waiting the Duchess of Bedford. Tea was becoming the national beverage since Assam, Darjeeling, and Ceylon black teas were more affordable. Much of the tea etiquette developed during this period is in use today.
The queen preferred Earl Grey, often with shortbread cookies made with a pinch of salt. She loved fine chocolates and English toffee, and she was a whisky aficionado. At Balmoral, she liked to take a “wee drop” in her tea. The royal tea is similar to the afternoon tea but includes a glass of Champagne or sherry.
Low tea or high tea — what is the difference? Mrs. Isabella Beeton, English author of The Book of Household Management (1880) wrote that the “cozy affairs” are afternoon teas or low teas in which the tea service is presented on low, elegant tables. “At home” teas required easy-to-manage sweet and savory foods chosen in anticipation of the late evening meal to come. The protocol was two-bite portions.
Tea foods appeared on tiered cake stands: cakes and pastries on top; scones in the middle, tea sandwiches on the bottom. Of Scottish heritage, scones are de rigueur on any tea table. The hostess is showing respect when asking a guest to pour the tea. In England, it is called “playing mother” because this is usually the matriarch’s responsibility.
Afternoon tea evolved among the working class to become the high tea, which replaced the late dinner. Mrs. Beeton remarked that this “moveable feast” could be served when convenient; little formality was needed. Fancy finger sandwiches had no place in this meal! A menu with cold meat dishes, at least one hot dish, salad, cake, and fruit would be served at a “high” dining table or kitchen table.
The countryside “farmhouse tea” includes bread, cheese, ham, pudding, and other foods to satisfy hearty appetites. The evening “cuppa” is poured from a Brown Betty, the quintessential English teapot first manufactured in 1695. Produced from terra cotta, it holds the heat well. High tea is now referred to as “tea, the meal.”
Lifestyles and dining customs change; formal afternoon tea service is now usually reserved for special occasions in posh hotels and tearooms. But the experience is not to be missed. Recent English trends include themed teas such as Mad Hatter’s Tea; garden teas that resemble Chelsea Flower Show exhibits; sightseeing tea on a double-decker bus; Sherlock Holmes Tea; and a delightful tea with live kittens.
A tea party does not have to be a complicated affair; it is more about sharing quality time with family and good friends. These recipes may inspire new tea traditions and encourage exploration into the wonderful world of tea.
Harlequin Shortbread
No common “biscuit,” this Scottish culinary icon has a long, distinguished history. Medieval shortbread was refined by Mary, Queen of Scots in the 17th century. She was partial to these triangular shortbread wedges cut from dough rounds that resembled the spread-out pattern (tallie) used for making bell-hoop petticoats for the court ladies. Enjoy a wedge with a cup of Earl Grey or rose-infused hot tea.
1 cup (8 ounces) quality, unsalted butter, at room temperature
2/3 cup confectioners’ sugar (plus extra for dusting)
1 1/4 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1/2 cup stone ground white rice flour (Bob’s Red Mill)
1 1/2 cups unbleached cake flour (King Arthur) or all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon extra-dark unsweetened cocoa (extra for dusting)
In a mixing bowl, cream butter, sugar, vanilla, and salt. Add rice flour, then cake flour; blend only until large clumps appear. By hand, press mixture into a dough. Divide dough; knead cocoa into 1/2 of the mix. Pat each half into an 8-inch round baking pan; cover with plastic wrap to smooth tops. Press a design around dough edges. Chill at least 1 hour. Dock (prick) the tops with a fork. Preheat oven to 275 degrees F. Bake dough 40 minutes until dry and slightly crisp; do not brown. With a sharp knife, cut each round into 6 or 8 wedges; do not remove until cool. Sift confectioners’ sugar over the vanilla wedges and cocoa over the chocolate wedges. Makes 16 pieces. Recipe from Cooking with Grains by Susan Slack (HP Books).
Currant Scones
The Devonshire Cream Tea is a simple tea service that is popular around England with scones, clotted cream, jam, or lemon curd and a pot of tea. In Southwest England, a long-standing controversy exists between Devonshire and Cornwall on whether scones should be topped first with clotted cream or with jam. In Devon, it is clotted cream first, then jam. In Cornwall, it is jam, then clotted cream. They also disagree on the pronunciation of scone; does it rhyme with bone or gone? The slightly dense texture of a British scone is well suited to these toppings. This version falls somewhere between the polished British scone and the rustic, American-style scone.
2 cups all-purpose flour (or 1 cup all-purpose flour and 1 cup cake flour)
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 tablespoon baking powder (make certain it is fresh)
1 teaspoon sea salt
6 tablespoons cold, unsalted butter, cut in small cubes
1/3 to 1/2 cup Zante currants
1 large egg yolk
1 1/4 cups chilled heavy cream, divided
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Clotted cream (Fresh Market) and jam
Preheat oven to 450 degrees F. Line a heavy-duty baking pan with parchment paper; set aside. (Two stacked baking sheets will protect scone bottoms from excess browning.) Whisk flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt 30 seconds to blend. Add butter; mash with fingers or cut it in, forming small clumps. Mix in currants. Whisk egg yolk, 1 cup cream, and vanilla together. Pour into flour, stirring with a wooden spoon to form a soft, shaggy dough. If needed, add remaining cream. Turn out on a lightly floured surface. Press out and fold dough 4 or 5 times. Pat into a 1-inch-thick circle. Cut scones with a 2 1/2 inch round cutter (do not twist cutter). Place on baking sheet. Layer dough scraps for cutting. Brush tops with any remaining egg mixture. (Or, whisk 1 yolk with cream or milk.) Bake 10 minutes or until firm and light golden brown. Frozen, unbaked scones can go directly into a hot oven; increase baking time by several minutes. Makes 8 or 9 scones.
Tip: If clotted cream is unavailable, lighten one cup of softened Italian mascarpone by folding in a small amount of whipped, heavy cream. Another luscious topping is creme fraiche, a French-style cultured cream.
Scones with Rose Cream Glaze
Grace the tea table with these glazed scones, which have the scent of roses from Nielsen Massey Rose Water, an elegant steam distillate of the purest rose petals. It is highly concentrated, so add it to foods drop by drop and then taste before adding more.
Bake one recipe of the Currant Scones omitting currants. As they cool, prepare the Rose Cream Glaze. Whisk until smooth 1 sifted cup confectioners’ sugar, 2 to 3 tablespoons heavy cream, a pinch of sea salt, 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla, 1 to 3 drops rose water, to taste. Spoon mixture over scones. Garnish with unsprayed rose petal, if available.
Cheese Scones
Serve these cheesy scones with orange marmalade or fig preserves and a pot of Earl Grey tea. British scones and cakes are regularly made with “self-raising” flour. For a decadent variation, add four pieces cooked, chopped bacon, snipped chives, and a pinch of dry mustard when mixing in the cheese.
2 cups self-rising, all-purpose flour (King Arthur Organic)
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1/3 cup chilled, unsalted butter, cut in small cubes
1 3/4 cups shredded, extra-sharp cheese, divided
1 large egg yolk
3/4 to 1 cup buttermilk
Preheat oven to 450 degrees F. Line a heavy-duty baking pan with parchment paper; set aside. (Two stacked baking sheets will protect scone bottoms from excess browning.) Whisk flour, sugar, and salt 30 seconds to blend. Add butter; mash with fingers or cut it in, forming small clumps. Toss in 1 1/4 cups cheese. Whisk egg yolk and 3/4 cup buttermilk. Pour into flour; stir with a wooden spoon to form a soft, shaggy dough. Add remaining buttermilk if needed. Turn out on a lightly floured surface. Press and fold dough 4 or 5 times. Divide dough; pat into 2 round circles on a large baking sheet. Sprinkle with remaining cheese. Bake 12 to 15 minutes or until golden brown. Cut each round of bread into wedges while warm. The dough can also be cut with a 2 1/2 inch round cutter.
Victoria Cupcakes with Lemon-Elderflower Glaze
I rarely use prepared mixes, but this recipe takes the cake! Cupcakes are enriched with creme fraiche and iced with elderflower glaze. English elderflower cordials are available locally. They are the taste of a London spring. For nicely shaped cakes, use regular-size paper liners in jumbo-size muffin tins. Another option is to bake two 9-inch layers; fill with Luscious Lemon Curd; and add frosting made from whipped, heavy cream flavored with elderflower cordial. Pair these flavors with a First Flush Darjeeling tea.
1 Butter Golden Cake Mix (like Duncan Hines)
2 tablespoons flour
3 large eggs
1 cup creme fraiche or sour cream
1/3 cup safflower or canola oil
1/4 cup water
1/4 cup granulated sugar
Zest of 1 lemon (save juice for the glaze)
Elderflower Cordial (Belvoir Fruit Farms), as needed
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. In a mixing bowl, beat all the ingredients, except cordial, on high speed 2 minutes until smooth. Line cupcake pans with paper liners; add scoops of batter nearly to the tops. Bake 12 to 15 minutes or until they test done. Remove cakes from the pans; sprinkle each one with a teaspoon of elderflower cordial. Make the Lemon-Elderflower Glaze (recipe below); reserve. Remove cupcake liners; put cakes into attractive, fresh liners. Spoon glaze over the tops; when firm, store in a shallow airtight container up to one week. Decorate with small edible blossoms before serving.
Lemon-Elderflower Glaze: Whisk together 1 1/2 cups confectioners’ sugar, 2 tablespoons Elderflower Cordial, pinch sea salt. If too thin, beat in more sugar; if too thick, add a few drops of cordial or milk.
Luscious Lemon Curd
Spread this English teatime treat on scones and shortbread, add to trifle, or fill small pastry shells and then add fresh raspberries. Swirl a portion into lightly sweetened whipped cream to top angel food and sponge cakes or gingerbread.
Grated zest from 1 lemon
1/2 cup lemon juice (3 or 4 lemons)
3 whole, large eggs plus 2 yolks (reserve whites for another use)
1 cup sugar
Pinch sea salt
1 stick cold, unsalted butter, cut in 8 pieces
Prepare zest and squeeze lemon juice; reserve. Whisk eggs and yolks; press through a fine strainer into a double boiler top. Whisk in sugar, lemon juice, and salt. Place over a double boiler base with simmering water. Stir mixture until thickened, about 8 minutes or until it just reaches 170 degrees F. Remove from heat, immediately stir in lemon zest and butter, 1 tablespoon at a time. Scrape into a bowl; cover surface with plastic wrap while cooling. Refrigerate in an airtight jar. The curd can be made in medium-size, heavy saucepan directly over low heat; stir constantly and do not allow it to boil.
As you make tea sandwiches, keep them covered with a parchment sheet and slightly damp paper towels. If made ahead, refrigerate in a rectangular, plastic storage container; serve the same day.
Cucumber-Mint Ribbon Sandwiches
This is the quintessential English sandwich for a proper afternoon tea. Thin, seedless cucumbers work best. Fine China green tea pairs well with cucumber sandwiches.
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 ounces plain cream cheese spread
1 to 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
Pinch sea salt
3-inch lengths of seedless cucumber, cut in thin strips
Sliced white bread (8 to 10 slices)
Small, fresh mint leaves for garnish
Blend butter, cream cheese, mint, lemon zest, and salt. Slice each cucumber piece lengthwise into paper-thin strips; place on paper towels to remove moisture. Spread bread slices lightly with cheese mixture. Over each slice, arrange four or five cucumber strips at an angle, slightly overlapping. Trim crusts from each sandwich; cut into rectangles, triangles, or ribbons. Garnish each sandwich with a small mint leaf.
Prosciutto & Arugula Tea Sandwiches
Consider including a small wedge of fresh melon, fig, or ripened pear under each piece of prosciutto.
4 ounces soft, mild goat cheese
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
Ground black pepper, to taste
Sliced white bread, cut in 2-inch rounds
Fresh arugula leaves, stems trimmed
3 or 4 ounces of thin prosciutto slices, torn in small pieces
Blend goat cheese, butter, and black pepper; spread lightly over bread rounds. Add an arugula leaf; top with a small piece of prosciutto.
Carrot Avocado Sandwiches
Spicy, homemade pimento cheese with toasted, chopped walnuts is a nice alternative filling.
4 tablespoons quality mayonnaise
4 tablespoons soft cream cheese
1 to 2 tablespoons mango chutney, to taste
2 small grated carrots; squeeze out excess liquid
3 tablespoons finely chopped golden raisins
Sea salt and white pepper, to taste
Sliced dark-grain bread and white bread (8 of each)
Watercress or other baby salad leaves
Small, firm but ripe avocado, cut in slices
Combine mayonnaise, cream cheese and chutney; stir in carrots, raisins, salt, and pepper. Cut an equal amount of dark and white bread rounds. Spread dark bread rounds with carrot mixture; top with watercress. Cover with white bread rounds; garnish with avocado.
As you make tea sandwiches, keep them covered with a parchment sheet and slightly damp paper towels. If made ahead, refrigerate in a rectangular, plastic storage container; serve the same day.
