Soda bread is Ireland’s most iconic quick bread. Before the 1830s, unleavened, flat griddle breads were cooked on the open hearth. When baking soda, bicarbonate of soda, came into use, it was combined with acidic sour milk or cultured buttermilk to create carbon dioxide for leavening. Soda bread was cooked in a three legged, covered iron pot in the embers. It became an important source of sustenance during Ireland’s Great Famine of 1846-52 when the fungus Phytophthora infestans wiped out the potato crop.

Soda breads come in various shapes and sizes; no two recipes are quite alike. In Northern Ireland, soda farls are flat, quarter wedges cooked on a griddle for breakfast. In the South, the rustic, rounded boule and loaf pan shapes are popular. Brown soda bread contains coarse, Irish whole meal flour; the bran and wheat germ give the craggy loaf its iconic taste and texture. A lighter, crusty loaf is made with Irish white flour. Typically low in protein and gluten, the soft flour is best for soda bread, cake, and scones.

The fruit soda bread recipe below was inspired by a similar soda bread I enjoyed last May with friends at Ballymaloe House in Cork, Ireland. You can also make it with dried cranberries or cherries, orange zest, caraway or sunflower seeds, finely chopped pieces of chocolate, or chopped walnuts instead of raisins. An important tradition to follow after shaping the dough is to cut a deep cross in the top; it’s essential for “letting the faeries out.” If left inside, they could cause great mischief! It also ensures even heat distribution. Soda bread is best eaten the day it’s baked; spread each slice with a lashing of rich, creamy butter, preferably the Irish Kerrygold brand. Cheese is an excellent accompaniment too.

Fruit Soda Bread

1 large egg
1 cup whole milk buttermilk, more if needed
½ cup old-fashioned oats, coarsely chopped
Zest of 1 large, fresh lemon
2 cups plain, soft wheat flour (White Lily), spooned into cup, leveled
2 tablespoons sugar (granulated or light brown)
1¼ teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
4 tablespoons frozen, unsalted butter, divided
¾ cup golden or dark raisins, or ⅔ cup currants
Coarse sugar or a tablespoon of oats, if desired
Salted butter, softened for spreading

Preheat oven to 400 F. Line the bottom of an 8-by-9-inch cast-iron skillet with a circle of baking parchment. Whisk egg, buttermilk, oats, and lemon zest in a medium bowl. Set aside. Measure flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt into a large bowl; whisk to combine 1 full minute.

Using the large-hole side of a small box grater, shred 3 tablespoons of the butter into the flour mixture. Use your fingertips to lift and toss mixture to blend and aerate. Toss in raisins. Pour buttermilk mixture into a well in the center of the dry ingredients. With a flexible spatula or wooden spoon, blend only until a soft, shaggy dough forms. Turn slightly sticky dough onto a lightly floured surface. Use a flexible dough scraper to help shape it into a mound, handling as little as possible. Place into the skillet. With a sharp knife, cut a 1 inch deep cross into the top. Melt remaining tablespoon butter; drizzle over dough; sprinkle with sugar or oats. Bake 25 minutes or until golden brown. An instant read thermometer should register 200 F, and the bottom crust should sound hollow when tapped. Cool on a rack about 20 minutes. For softer crust, wrap in a clean tea towel. Slice and serve with butter. Wrap leftover bread tightly; store a second day on the counter or freeze. Slices can be rewarmed or toasted.

Variations

* Blend 1 rounded tablespoon wheat germ into the flour mixture.

* Recipe can be doubled. Bake 1 large or 2 smaller bread rounds on a large, heavy baking sheet covered with parchment and lightly dusted with flour. The loaves may spread slightly; adjust baking time, if necessary.