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A Shell of a Time

Digging into South Carolina’s jewelry

By Meghan Godwin

Long before tourists flooded the South Carolina coastline from North Myrtle Beach down to Hilton Head Island, indigenous peoples — the first inhabitants of the South Carolina Lowcountry — began collecting seashells. Today’s gift store merchants and coastally influenced artisans have all taken a page out of the book of the state’s earliest craftspeople. Artifacts from thousands of years back reveal an array of jewelry, tools, and other items crafted out of oysters, clams, and other mollusks for a variety of purposes, from religion to trade. Many millennia later, this hobby is still widely practiced by seashell enthusiasts of all ages, interests, and experience levels.

Sea Urchins Sea urchins are not likely to be the first creatures that come to mind when beachgoers begin to daydream about upcoming summer vacations. This animal’s spiky spines scream, “Don’t touch me!” — though the short-spined and purple sea urchins found in South Carolina are not actually poisonous, just pointy. When it comes to shell collecting, dead sea urchins are the real crowd-pleasers. Once the animals have lost their spines, the pin cushion-shaped shell that is left behind makes for a quirky addition to any collection.
Sea Urchins Sea urchins are not likely to be the first creatures that come to mind when beachgoers begin to daydream about upcoming summer vacations. This animal’s spiky spines scream, “Don’t touch me!” — though the short-spined and purple sea urchins found in South Carolina are not actually poisonous, just pointy. When it comes to shell collecting, dead sea urchins are the real crowd-pleasers. Once the animals have lost their spines, the pin cushion-shaped shell that is left behind makes for a quirky addition to any collection.
Sea Stars or Starfish  Though widely recognized on beaches around the world, the roughly 2,000 species of sea stars have a bit of an identity crisis on their hands. Because they do not have fins, gills, or scales, they are not fish at all — nor are they of the traditional seashell family since they do not have a hard outer shell. Instead, they belong to a family of invertebrate marine animals called echinoderms, along with sea urchins and sand dollars. These fabled faux fish are most commonly equipped with five suction-cupped arms, though some have been known to boast 10 or more. A sea star with fewer than five arms may concern you at first glance, but don’t worry — live starfish have regenerative superpowers that allow them to build back their own bodies.  Although sea stars are very squarely not fish, they do need to stay in salt water to survive. As far as landlocked sea star rescue efforts go, Ann recommends lending a helping hand whenever you can. “If you try to put it back into the ocean gently, I think you make a difference, give it a second chance at life.”
Sea Stars or Starfish Though widely recognized on beaches around the world, the roughly 2,000 species of sea stars have a bit of an identity crisis on their hands. Because they do not have fins, gills, or scales, they are not fish at all — nor are they of the traditional seashell family since they do not have a hard outer shell. Instead, they belong to a family of invertebrate marine animals called echinoderms, along with sea urchins and sand dollars. These fabled faux fish are most commonly equipped with five suction-cupped arms, though some have been known to boast 10 or more. A sea star with fewer than five arms may concern you at first glance, but don’t worry — live starfish have regenerative superpowers that allow them to build back their own bodies. Although sea stars are very squarely not fish, they do need to stay in salt water to survive. As far as landlocked sea star rescue efforts go, Ann recommends lending a helping hand whenever you can. “If you try to put it back into the ocean gently, I think you make a difference, give it a second chance at life.”
Sand Dollar Sand dollars are another set of storied beach creatures that are often mislabeled as seashells. Like sea urchins, the shell reveals itself only when the living creature dies. Live sand dollars are covered in tiny, hair-like spines that result in a fuzzy appearance. These cream-colored, disc-shaped shells are really just exoskeletons of animals that once spent their days burrowing along the sandy ocean floor.  While the sand dollar is the subject of many folklore tales, one legend is perhaps most widely circulated, particularly among Christian circles. This legend ascribes religious symbolism to many of the sand dollar’s unique qualities. As the legend goes, the star-shaped imprint atop the sand dollar represents the Star of Bethlehem, which led the Wise Men to Christ upon His birth. Surrounding the star is a larger pattern that mimics the petals of an Easter lily, a symbol of Christ’s Resurrection. The four holes around the disk’s diameter are said to represent the four wounds Christ endured as a result of being nailed to the cross. The fifth hole, in the center of the shell, symbolizes the hole in Christ’s body made by a Roman soldier’s spear. The veiny underbelly of the sand dollar reveals a poinsettia leaf-like pattern — a plant widely associated with Christmastime. Finally, if the shell is broken open, five dove-shaped pieces emerge. This is thought to be an uncanny connection to the white-winged religious symbol of goodwill and peace.
Sand Dollar Sand dollars are another set of storied beach creatures that are often mislabeled as seashells. Like sea urchins, the shell reveals itself only when the living creature dies. Live sand dollars are covered in tiny, hair-like spines that result in a fuzzy appearance. These cream-colored, disc-shaped shells are really just exoskeletons of animals that once spent their days burrowing along the sandy ocean floor. While the sand dollar is the subject of many folklore tales, one legend is perhaps most widely circulated, particularly among Christian circles. This legend ascribes religious symbolism to many of the sand dollar’s unique qualities. As the legend goes, the star-shaped imprint atop the sand dollar represents the Star of Bethlehem, which led the Wise Men to Christ upon His birth. Surrounding the star is a larger pattern that mimics the petals of an Easter lily, a symbol of Christ’s Resurrection. The four holes around the disk’s diameter are said to represent the four wounds Christ endured as a result of being nailed to the cross. The fifth hole, in the center of the shell, symbolizes the hole in Christ’s body made by a Roman soldier’s spear. The veiny underbelly of the sand dollar reveals a poinsettia leaf-like pattern — a plant widely associated with Christmastime. Finally, if the shell is broken open, five dove-shaped pieces emerge. This is thought to be an uncanny connection to the white-winged religious symbol of goodwill and peace.

While shells are often admired for their aesthetic appeal, these glorified exoskeletons serve a bigger purpose in the grand scheme of the coastal ecosystem. Ann Wilson of the South Carolina Department of Parks, Recreation, and Tourism explains that shells are one way that the beach tells its tales. “Shells are dead animals that have these whole stories,” she says, adding, “There are so many stories that are out in the ocean or that you’re walking on top of.”

A moon snail, for example, is a respectable find in and of itself for a sharp-eyed collector. However, a closer look at its smooth, tightly wound, milk-colored shell may reveal more to the snail’s story. Because these cannibalistic snails kill by boring holes in their brethren, they leave crime scenes scattered along the beach in plain sight.

The real crime, though, is neglecting to appreciate the intimate interdependence of shells and the beaches they inhabit. Ann explains that, as living organisms, shells are a major contributor to the food chain. The filtration process carried out by oysters, for example, helps keep harmful elements out of many of the fish that end up as fare for the two-legged, land-loving type. After the animals inside of them have died, oyster shells often become substrate for other animals. Finally, as their shell structure breaks down over time, it becomes part of the beach.

Lettered Olive The tightly spun cylindrical shape of South Carolina’s state shell bears a distinctive resemblance to a folded artisan pastry. If it were lying on the shelf at a bakery, the slit running along its side would inevitably be oozing with a delicious cream or jelly. As it is, when found on the beach, it is more likely that a marine snail would be making its way out of this opening to snack on a coquina clam.  The lettered olive, named for the similarities of its patterning to vague forms of lettering, ranges from ivory to brown tones with marbled interiors and is generally anywhere from 1 to 5 inches long.
Lettered Olive The tightly spun cylindrical shape of South Carolina’s state shell bears a distinctive resemblance to a folded artisan pastry. If it were lying on the shelf at a bakery, the slit running along its side would inevitably be oozing with a delicious cream or jelly. As it is, when found on the beach, it is more likely that a marine snail would be making its way out of this opening to snack on a coquina clam. The lettered olive, named for the similarities of its patterning to vague forms of lettering, ranges from ivory to brown tones with marbled interiors and is generally anywhere from 1 to 5 inches long.
Cockle Named for its visual similarity to the heart’s cockles, or ventricles, the cockle shell epitomizes the image of a seashell most likely conjured up when these gifts of the sea make their way into coastal daydreams. These clam-shaped bivalves measure between just under half an inch to 6 inches and vary significantly in color, covering a spectrum ranging from soft cream to vibrant red hues. Unlike many of their smooth-surfaced counterparts, cockles are identifiable by textured ribbing that runs from their beaks to their fanned bases.
Cockle Named for its visual similarity to the heart’s cockles, or ventricles, the cockle shell epitomizes the image of a seashell most likely conjured up when these gifts of the sea make their way into coastal daydreams. These clam-shaped bivalves measure between just under half an inch to 6 inches and vary significantly in color, covering a spectrum ranging from soft cream to vibrant red hues. Unlike many of their smooth-surfaced counterparts, cockles are identifiable by textured ribbing that runs from their beaks to their fanned bases.
Pen Shell The pen or “fan” shell is yet another member of the clam family, though the family resemblance ends nearly as soon as it begins with these hinged bivalves. Whereas many clams have hard shells that serve as defensive armor against predators, the pen shell’s exterior is thin and delicate. Its shape resembles an elongated and more compact rendition of a traditional silk fan, an elegantly mysterious image further instilled by the shell’s opulent translucence. Pen shells are generally brown with notes of gold and rich shades of blue.
Pen Shell The pen or “fan” shell is yet another member of the clam family, though the family resemblance ends nearly as soon as it begins with these hinged bivalves. Whereas many clams have hard shells that serve as defensive armor against predators, the pen shell’s exterior is thin and delicate. Its shape resembles an elongated and more compact rendition of a traditional silk fan, an elegantly mysterious image further instilled by the shell’s opulent translucence. Pen shells are generally brown with notes of gold and rich shades of blue.

Needless to say, shells are somewhat of a lifeline to the coastline, which is why it is important to remember that the catch-and-release method can apply to shelling, as well as fishing. It provides all the thrill of the find and none of the burden of hauling home buckets of sandy shells. This method should be applied to live shells without exception, but Ann encourages shell seekers to consider leaving dead shells behind, too. “You don’t have to take home a lot. We want to leave shells for other people and for the beach,” she says.

Avid collectors have likely honed in on the key ingredients for a successful day of shelling. However, for those who may be looking to level up on this timeless treasure hunt, Ann has a few tips. First, know your tide. “The more beach that’s exposed with lower tides, the more live shells,” she says. Additionally, beaches in close proximity to inlets — like Huntington Beach State Park — are preferable. Beaches that have undergone re-nourishment projects, which bring offshore sand inland, can offer spectacular shelling as well. “If you can get to those beaches right after they open, you can find a treasure trove of live and dead shells that were not there before,” she says.

Paired with the right set of eyes, these tips may prove successful in spotting a few of the state’s most beloved seashells — and corresponding creatures.

Whelk The whelk’s size, curvature, and patterning may make it one of the South’s most sought-after seashells. “For a lot of shellers, this is going to be the holy grail of finding a whole snail that’s not in pieces,” Anne says. These univalves — or snails — have a spiraled, torch-like shape that widens towards the top of the shell and culminates in a pointed spire, similar to that of the lettered olive. While whelks are commonly mistaken for conchs, it is highly unlikely that a conch would wash ashore in South Carolina; the latter are native to southern Florida and the Caribbean. Of the four whelk varieties found in South Carolina, knobbed whelks are the most common. This species has notably distinct, wispy, pointed ends that line the whorls leading up to its spires.
Whelk The whelk’s size, curvature, and patterning may make it one of the South’s most sought-after seashells. “For a lot of shellers, this is going to be the holy grail of finding a whole snail that’s not in pieces,” Anne says. These univalves — or snails — have a spiraled, torch-like shape that widens towards the top of the shell and culminates in a pointed spire, similar to that of the lettered olive. While whelks are commonly mistaken for conchs, it is highly unlikely that a conch would wash ashore in South Carolina; the latter are native to southern Florida and the Caribbean. Of the four whelk varieties found in South Carolina, knobbed whelks are the most common. This species has notably distinct, wispy, pointed ends that line the whorls leading up to its spires.
Ark Though arks and cockles both have rounded triangular shapes, a quick comparison of the shells’ interiors is the easiest way to demystify their identities. Whereas the interior rim of an ark clam flattens at the beak, cockle shells remain rounded. Arks, like other clams, also tend to wear a velvety layer of periostracum — a thin, organic covering — atop their ridged exteriors.
Ark Though arks and cockles both have rounded triangular shapes, a quick comparison of the shells’ interiors is the easiest way to demystify their identities. Whereas the interior rim of an ark clam flattens at the beak, cockle shells remain rounded. Arks, like other clams, also tend to wear a velvety layer of periostracum — a thin, organic covering — atop their ridged exteriors.
Seashells isolated on whCoquina  Brightly colored coquinas make for excellent beachfront entertainment — just park a folding chair at the water’s edge at low tide and wait for the show to start. As the waves scurry onto the shore, these petite, wedge-shaped clams shimmy down into the sand to avoid being drawn out to sea. The unique patterning on coquinas, which becomes visible as they resurface, often mimics planetary rings or rays of sunshine. ite background
Seashells isolated on whCoquina Brightly colored coquinas make for excellent beachfront entertainment — just park a folding chair at the water’s edge at low tide and wait for the show to start. As the waves scurry onto the shore, these petite, wedge-shaped clams shimmy down into the sand to avoid being drawn out to sea. The unique patterning on coquinas, which becomes visible as they resurface, often mimics planetary rings or rays of sunshine. ite background

In a fast-paced world, the simple delight that stems from strolling barefoot down a beach, treading lightly over particularly shelly sections of sand, is undoubtedly unmatched. Regardless of what the sun and sand offer up on any given day, Ann describes shelling as an opportunity to appreciate what’s around us. She says, “If you look down where you are, sometimes you’ll find some spectacular things.”

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