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  • April 2021

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The Delicate Dessert

Romantic French macarons

By Helen Dennis

Photography by Jeff Amberg

Anyone who has mastered the art of creating a macaron will tell you that it is certainly a labor of love. The delicate sandwiched pastry is a subtle, yet irresistible treat comprised of two light almond meringues and a rich, sturdy filling. Creating this delectable treat takes patience, practice, and attention to detail.

The French macaron possesses a certain romanticism. Though the name French macaron differentiates this dessert from coconut macaroons, the cookie actually has its origins in Italian monasteries. Venetian nuns are credited with the creation of the almond meringue that is now the shell of the modern French macaron. The marriage of Henry II of France and Catherine de Medici brought the delicacy to France, where it has since been claimed, evolved into a sandwich cookie, and popularized worldwide.

While it could be the pastry’s French association that carries romantic notions, anyone who has bitten into a macaron will tell you there’s more to it. This delicate sandwiched pastry is a subtle, yet irresistible treat comprised of two light almond meringues and a rich, sturdy filling. It’s a culinary embodiment of opposites attracting. Furthermore, anyone who has mastered the art of creating this delicacy will tell you that it is most certainly a labor of love.

For the shell, an ingredient list of only three sounds simple, but each plays a vital role in creating the irresistibly light yet crisp cookie. Egg whites provide the main volume to the cookie while almond meal brings the structure. Sugar and optional ingredients like vanilla or lemon zest create the unique flavor. While modern diets have begun excluding gluten, these centuries old pastries were well ahead of their time in that regard. Whereas wheat flour would provide gluten and a more stable cookie, the use of almond meal provides just enough structure to let the egg white do most of the work, resulting in a much lighter confection.

Creating the delicate shell takes patience, practice, and attention to detail. In preparing the outer layers of a French macaron, texture is key at each of the three steps. First, the egg whites must be beaten until stiff. Once the meringue has been whipped, adding the dry ingredients will transform the mixture into a shiny batter that runs smoothly in ribbons. Finally, after the cookies are piped, they must sit until they set before baking and until the batter is no longer sticky to the touch. Paying attention to each of these textures throughout the process will yield the perfect shell.

For the filling, choose an ingredient that will be sturdy, but not stiff. No one wants to bite into a macaron and have half the filling ooze out the other side. Traditionally buttercream frosting is used, but ganache is a delicious alternative for chocolate flavors. To make the filling even more interesting, some bakers will use frosting or ganache to create a border of sorts and then add jam or a softer filling inside. This technique can be seen in the Champagne and pistachio recipes below.

Begin with a classic flavor to practice the technique before incorporating complicated ingredients. Vanilla is a simple place to start and build confidence in the process. The buttercream frosting instructions listed in the Vanilla Macaron recipe will also be used in others.

Classic Vanilla Macaron

Shell

1 cup powdered sugar
1 cup almond flour
2 egg whites, room temperature
½ teaspoon vanilla extract

Run the sugar and almond flour through a fine mesh sieve to remove any large pieces. Set dry ingredients aside. In a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, beat eggs until stiff peaks form. Add vanilla extract and beat in on a low speed to incorporate. Using a rubber spatula, fold in ⅓ of the dry ingredients. Continue adding dry ingredients ⅓ at a time until fully incorporated.

Place the batter into a piping bag fitted with a small circular tip. Preheat the oven to 250 degrees F. Prepare the baking sheets. If you have silicone baking mats, place them on the baking sheet. If not, parchment paper will do. Place a small dot of batter on each corner of the sheet and lay the parchment paper on top. The dots of batter will help hold the paper in place while piping out the cookies.

Pipe batter out in 2-inch circles. Once completed, tap the baking sheets on the counter to help shake out any air bubbles. If any air bubbles rise to the surface, use a toothpick to pop them and smooth out the top. Let the batter sit for 1 hour, until a light film has formed over the batter. Lightly run a finger over a cookie. If the batter is smooth and does not stick to your finger, it is ready to bake. Bake for 15 minutes. Allow the cookies to cool completely.

Filling

½ cup butter
1¼ cup powdered sugar
2 teaspoons cream
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

This icing recipe can be used for any of the below recipes. Some additional ingredients may be added to best accompany the macaron flavor. For the icing, use a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Whisk the butter until light and fluffy. Add powdered sugar and vanilla extract. Once incorporated, add the cream  and continue mixing until smooth icing forms. Place the icing into a piping bag.

To assemble the macarons, pipe the icing onto the flat side of a cookie. Use another cookie to create a sandwich. Continue until all macarons have been assembled.

Champagne & Strawberry Macarons

For this macaron, use the vanilla shell recipe on the previous page.

Filling

½ cup butter
1¼ cup powdered sugar
2 teaspoons cream
1 cup Champagne

Strawberry jam

Heat Champagne on the stovetop on medium high heat until reduced to ¼ cup, about 10 minutes. Set aside to cool. Use a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Whisk the butter until light and fluffy. Add powdered sugar and whisk until fully incorporated. Then add cream and reduced Champagne. The butter may appear to curdle but continue mixing on high. It will eventually incorporate.

To assemble, pipe the Champagne frosting onto the shell in a circle, leaving the middle open. Spoon a teaspoon of strawberry jam onto the center and top with another shell. Repeat until all of the macarons have been assembled.

Hot Chocolate Macarons

Shell

1 cup powdered sugar
⅔ cup almond flour
⅓ cup cocoa powder
2 egg whites

Run the sugar, almond flour, and cocoa powder through a fine mesh sieve to remove any large pieces. Set dry ingredients aside. In a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, beat eggs until stiff peaks form. Using a rubber spatula fold in ⅓ of the dry ingredients. Continue adding dry ingredients ⅓ at a time until fully incorporated. Batter should flow smoothly off of the spatula in ribbons when complete.

Place the batter into a piping bag fitted with a round tip. Preheat the oven to 250 degrees F. Prepare the baking sheets. If you have silicone baking mats, place them on the baking sheet. If not, parchment paper will do. Place a small dot of batter on each corner of the sheet and lay the parchment paper on top. The dots of batter will help hold the paper in place while piping out the cookies.

Pipe batter out in 2-inch circles. Once completed, tap the baking sheets on the counter to help shake out any air bubbles. Let the batter sit for 1 hour, until a light film has formed over the batter. Lightly run a finger over a cookie. If the batter is smooth and does not stick to your finger, it is ready to bake. Bake for 15 minutes. Allow the cookies to cool completely.

Marshmallow Filling

For a simpler approach, you have full permission to simply use a jar of store-bought marshmallow creme. However, since the mixer is already out, you might as well go all the way with this homemade version.

¼ cup water
¾ cup sugar
¾ cup honey
3 egg whites
½ teaspoon cream of tartar
¼ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Combine water, sugar, and honey in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Be sure to use a pan that is large enough for the mixture to bubble up and expand. Heat while stirring regularly until a candy thermometer reads 240 degrees F, approximately 10 minutes.

While the sugar mixture is heating up, place the egg whites, cream of tartar, and salt into a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Begin whisking on low, slowly increasing speed to medium until soft peaks form.

When the sugar mixture has reached 240 degrees F, remove from heat. Allow any bubbling to subside before continuing. Turn the mixer with egg whites on high and slowly drizzle the sugar mixture into the egg whites. Continue mixing until the mixture resembles light, fluffy marshmallow creme and stiff peaks form, approximately 7 minutes. Add the vanilla extract and mix for another minute.

As soon as the marshmallow is complete, put into a piping bag and pipe onto the shells. The marshmallow sets quickly, so it is important to work quickly. Once all of the macarons have been assembled, use a kitchen torch to lightly toast the exposed marshmallow filling.

Pistachio Lemon

1 cup pistachios, shelled
1 cup powdered sugar
½ cup almond flour
2 egg whites, room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Place pistachios into a food processer and grind into a fine flour. Run the powder through a fine mesh sieve. Set the larger pieces aside. Pour powdered sugar, almond flour, and ½ cup pistachio flour into a food processor and pulse until the ingredients are incorporated. Run the sugar and nut mixture through a fine mesh sieve to remove any large pieces. Set dry ingredients aside. In a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, beat eggs until stiff peaks form. Add vanilla extract and beat in on a low speed. Using a rubber spatula, fold in ⅓ of the dry ingredients. Continue adding dry ingredients ⅓ at a time until fully incorporated.

Place the batter into a piping bag fitted with a round tip. Preheat the oven to 250 degrees F. Prepare the baking sheets. If you have silicone baking mats, place them on the baking sheet. If not, parchment paper will do. Place a small dot of batter on each corner of the sheet and lay the parchment paper on top. The dots of batter will help hold the paper in place while piping out the cookies.

Pipe batter out in 2-inch circles. Once completed, tap the baking sheets on the counter to help shake out any air bubbles. Let the batter sit for 1 hour, until a light film has formed over the batter. Lightly run a finger over a cookie. If the batter is smooth and does not stick to your finger, it is ready to bake. Bake for 15 minutes. Allow the cookies to cool completely.

Lemon Curd Filling

1 egg
2½ tablespoons lemon juice
⅔ tablespoon lemon zest
2½ tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons butterButtercream icing

In a double boiler, whisk egg, lemon juice and zest, and sugar. Heat for 10 minutes until sugar is melted and mixture is thick. Remove the mixture from the heat and stir in the butter ½ tablespoon at a time. Cover the mixture with plastic wrap to prevent a film from forming as the lemon curd cools.

To assemble, pipe the buttercream icing onto the shell in a circle, leaving the middle open. Spoon a teaspoon of lemon curd onto the center and top with another shell. Repeat until all of the macarons have been assembled. Spread the larger pistachio pieces onto a cutting board. Roll the edge of each macaron in the pistachio pieces so that they stick to the buttercream icing.

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