When it comes to summer sipping, choices abound, from an icy cold beer or a frosty frozen creation to a chilled glass of rose or sauvignon blanc. These days, though, the most popular choice seems to be the Aperol Spritz, a fizzy, sunset-hued libation that’s as stunning to look at as it is refreshing to drink.
Spritzes are said to have their roots in northern Italy, which from 1815 until 1866 was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Preferring the low ABV (alcohol by volume) of beer to the region’s locally produced wines, Austro-Hungarian visitors to the region would often ask to have a spritz — which is German for a spray or a splash — of water added to their wine.
Though a new drink would normally be a voila moment, the birth of the spritz wasn’t anything to be celebrated — it was just warm, watered down wine. Even later, when carbonated water, or in some parts of the world Sprite, eventually replaced regular water, the white wine spritz was, sadly, as dull as it was low calorie.
In Venice, though, events were happening a bit differently. Instead of letting the spritz remain what had to be the least festive cocktail ever invented, around 1920, a local bartender turned the spritz on its head by replacing the white wine with prosecco — which was produced nearby — and for good measure added a good slug of Aperol, a newly created, less bitter botanical amaro from neighboring Padua. To lighten the drink, he topped it off with a bit of carbonated water; for added drama he served the whole concoction in an ice-filled goblet with a huge slice of fresh orange. Unlike its boring predecessor, the Aperol Spritz was something to get excited about, and before long it was the aperitivo of choice all over Venice. The drink was so popular that competing liquor companies quickly got on the orange amaro bandwagon, creating milder amari like Select, Contratto, and Ramazzatti. Though each had its own secret blend of flavorings, their fiery hue and orange-ish flavor belied the fact that they were competing for a slice of the spritz pie.
One reason that the Aperol Spritz gained such recognition was that at the time it was revolutionary; amari, the bitter, aromatic liquors that European monks had been brewing up for centuries, had until then been sipped on their own from tiny glasses, either before the meal as an appetite-stimulating aperitivo or after the meal to aid with digestion. Apparently that remarkable bitterness was what made them so effective as a digestif; thinking poison was being ingested, the body turbocharged the digestive process to get it out, leaving the drinker feeling less uncomfortably full.
Aperol was different. Like Campari, which had been created in 1860, Aperol was sweeter and a bit thicker than a traditional amaro. Even better, instead of being harshly bitter, its distinctive freshness — from orange and rhubarb essences — made it stand out, even from Campari, which though sweet and beautifully flavored carries a noticeable bitterness.
It didn’t take long for deliciousness to overcome tradition and, particularly in Venice, the term aperitivo went from referring to an often medicinal-tasting elixir to a pre-dinner ritual. Though spritzes were often the aperitivo of choice, Italians sipped a variety of amaro-based cocktails before dinner, including the Negroni, a fully flavored mix of Campari, gin, and sweet vermouth; the Milano-Torino, which was created in 1860, the same year as Campari, and is blended with sweet vermouth and bitters; and finally the Avena Limonate, a classic Sicilian combination of lemon juice, simple syrup, soda water, and another bitter amaro called Avena.
Bartenders loved the new formula — bitter-ish amari, prosecco, and carbonated water. They began to experiment with other liquors as well, building delicious spritzes using not just Italian amari like Ramazzotti and Campari but botanical liquors from France such as Lillet.
Limoncello “French 75” Spritz
Served in a flute or wine glass, the French 75 is a delicious but potent combination of gin, lemon juice, and Champagne. This lighter version is made with limoncello, a sunny yellow liqueur made by infusing vodka with sugar and lots of lemon peel. Citrus gin keeps things from getting too sweet and seltzer holds down the ABV, transforming this classic drink into an easy sipper.
4 ounces prosecco
2 ounces limoncello
1 ounce citrusy gin, like Citadelle Jardin d’ete
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice or to taste, depending on the sweetness of the limoncello
3 ounces seltzer, or to taste
Pour prosecco into an ice-filled goblet, add gin, lemon juice, and limoncello, and stir gently to mix. Top with seltzer to taste and garnish with a big wedge of lemon and orange.
Classic Aperol Spritz
Bright as a summer sunset, an Aperol Spritz doesn’t walk the line between sweet and bitter; rather, it manages to combine both in a perfectly balanced, orange-scented drink. To dial up the bitterness, sub in Campari or Select for the Aperol. If you prefer to avoid artificial color, pick up a bottle of Apertivo from Leopold Brothers, Faccia Brutto, or Contratto, all of which use naturally sourced dyes. Whatever you choose, don’t skimp on the orange slice … it adds a necessary jolt of acidity to the drink!
3 ounces prosecco
2 ounces Aperol
Splash of Seltzer
Orange slice, for garnish
Pour the prosecco into an ice-filled goblet; add the Aperol and stir gently to combine. Top with seltzer and garnish with a large slice of fresh orange.
Pomegranate Elderflower Spritz
This beautifully colored spritz is filled with the complex flavors of fragrant elderflower; pomegranate juice cuts the sweetness of the St. Germain without loading up the drink’s ABV.
4 ounces prosecco
2 ounces elderflower liqueur, like St. Germain
1½ ounces pomegranate juice, like Pom
1 ounce seltzer, or to taste
Pour the prosecco into an ice-filled goblet. Add the elderflower liqueur and pomegranate juice, and stir gently to combine. Top with seltzer and garnish with a long strip of lemon peel.
Grapefruit Spritz
Giffard Crème de Pamplemousse, a pale pink liqueur made from grapefruit peels, gives this sophisticated spritz its enticing flavor; a dash of Campari adds sophistication and depth. Garnish with a wedge of grapefruit.
4 ounces prosecco
2 ounces Giffard Crème de Pamplemousse
½ ounce Campari
2 ounces seltzer or to taste, plain or grapefruit
Pour prosecco into an ice-filled goblet, add Crème de Pamplemousse and Campari, and stir gently to mix. Top with seltzer and garnish alongside a wedge of pink grapefruit!
Lillet Spritz
Created in 1872, Lillet is a wine-based spirit made in France. Lillet Blanc is infused with the flavors of orange and exotic fruits; Lillet Rose adds a bit of berry to the mix.
Lillet spritzes can be made with equal parts Lillet and seltzer or equal parts Lillet and Champagne; the two are rarely combined. Garnish with fresh orange, lemon, or berries.
Aperol Spritzes felt like a secret until about the early 2000s when they began appearing on cocktail menus in large American cities. Ten years later, the quenching drinks became so popular that home bartenders were mixing them up for their own aperitivo hours. “Aperol flies off the shelf,” says Nate Groscost, general manager at Morganelli’s on Forest Drive. “They’ve recently introduced smaller bottles so you can try it out without making a big commitment.”
Like any cocktail, a spritz can be modified to suit just about any taste: mix up any liqueur with sparkling wine and club soda and you’ve got yourself a spritz. The key is balance. Slightly off-dry, prosecco is a perfect partner for bitter, herb-focused aperitivos, allowing the drink to be sweetish but not cloying with just enough edge to be interesting. The addition of sparkling water keeps the drink light enough that you don’t have to stop at one.
But that doesn’t mean a novice bartender can’t get creative. Add interest to a spritz with a dash of something unexpected like bitters, flavored seltzer, fruit juice, or even a sprig of rosemary — in Venice, bartenders often cut the sweetness of a Select spritz with a garnish of olives. Don’t like bitter? In Sorrento, where lemon trees grow like kudzu along the side of the highway, bartenders sub out limoncello for the Aperol and jazz it up with a big slice of fresh lemon. “If it tastes good on its own, you know it will be delicious in a spritz,” says Nate. “It’s fun to mess around with all the different flavors!”
Since spritzes contain just a few ingredients, make sure yours are top quality. Soda or seltzer should be cold and lively, and your fruit should be fresh. Prosecco, cremant, cava, or sparkling wine are all better choices than complex Champagne. Save that to drink on its own!
These drinks require a lot of ice, so you’ll need to use a sturdy goblet, such as heavy glass or sterling silver; lacking that, carefully placing the ice in your wine glass will keep it from shattering. Paper or reusable straws and bright umbrellas add a festive touch.