The age-old question of which came first – the chicken or the egg – has been pondered throughout history. British scientists announced recently that it was the chicken, after extensive research supported by a world-class supercomputer. The debate continues despite the science, the legends and the myths, but one thing is certain … Mother Nature designed a nearly perfect food when she created the egg.
“Egg dishes have a kind of elegance, a freshness, an allure, which sets them quite apart from any other kind of food … ”
Elizabeth David
Eggs are a low-cost, high-quality protein food with all the essential amino acids, important minerals and essential fatty acids like DHA, Omega 3. They contain vitamins A, E and B, as well as choline, a critical component of cells. An egg also has 41 IU of vitamin D, which is 64 percent higher than previously thought. Choline and vitamin D are not plentiful in many foods. Researchers believe antioxidants lutein and zeaxanthin (carotenoids) found in eggs help prevent macular degeneration and cataracts.
Eggs have been shunned in recent decades as a high-cholesterol food associated with coronary heart disease. Harvard researchers now find that moderate consumption doesn’t raise heart disease risk in healthy people, and because of the nutrients, in fact, it may even lower it. Saturated fat seems to be a bigger culprit than cholesterol.
Improved poultry feeds have been designed to increase the nutrients in eggs and reduce the saturated content in the yolks. According to the Egg Nutrition Center, a large egg has 6.3 grams protein, 1.6 grams saturated fat and 72 calories. It contains about 185 milligrams of dietary cholesterol, a 14 percent drop in recent years.
The egg looks like a simple package, but it’s really quite complex. When separated, egg whites and egg yolks have unique culinary properties, yet they work together in perfect balance. Some cooking functions are impossible without eggs. Imagine trying to leaven angel food cakes, soufflés and meringues without egg whites beaten into fluffy clouds. Egg yolks are valued for their ability to emulsify, thicken and add richness to many foods.
One of the tastiest ways to eat eggs is suggested by Linda Hiltner, owner of the Gourmet Shop in Five Points. She prepares Shirred Eggs with Fresh Herbs, a French-inspired dish featuring eggs that are baked, uncovered, in small individual dishes and enhanced with a few flavorful ingredients. Sautéed mushrooms, strips of prosciutto, a few tablespoons of creamed spinach or Creole sauce would add a nice touch.
“Probably one of the most private things in the world is an egg until it is broken.” ~ M.F.K. Fisher
Many cultures base traditions around eggs. They play a symbolic role in the Jewish Passover Seder and in the Christian Resurrection celebrated at Easter. In Medieval Europe, during Lent, it was forbidden to eat eggs so they had to be preserved until Easter. Decorated boiled eggs became an expressive art form throughout the world, celebrating the rebirth of nature. Hard–cooked eggs are just as attractive when deviled and stuffed with tasty fillings, as shown in the recipes that follow.
Hard-Cooked Eggs
Fresh eggs are difficult to peel so buy them a week or two in advance. The eggs shrink and pull the inner membrane slightly away from the shells, making them easier to peel.
Don’t boil eggs or they can become tough and rubbery. The harmless green ring sometimes seen in hard-cooked eggs is a reaction between sulfur in the egg white and iron in the yolk. It happens when eggs cook at a temperature too high or for too long. Never microwave eggs in their shells: steam expands, and the eggs will explode.
Put large-size eggs in a single layer in a large saucepan. Cover with cold water by 1 inch. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat then turn off burner. Let eggs sit, covered, 12 minutes. For extra-large eggs, increase time to 15 minutes. Adjust time slightly, if necessary. Drain and cool eggs under cold running water. If not peeled at once, refrigerate. To peel, crack the entire shell gently on the counter top to loosen. Start near the air pocket in the large end and remove shell under cool running water. Refrigerate eggs up to one week.
Easter Egg Tips
Use nontoxic commercial food dyes to color eggs intended to be eaten, or make natural food colorings. Simmer a big handful of the dye material in 1 1/2 to 2 cups water until it turns the desired shade; strain and stir in about 1 tablespoon white vinegar. Try any of the following materials: onion skins or turmeric (yellow); walnut shells or coffee (brown); beets, cranberries, radishes, frozen raspberries (pink); red cabbage leaves or canned blueberries (blue); and spinach leaves (pale green). Oil can prevent color from adhering properly to the eggs. To clean, wipe eggs lightly with white vinegar. Hide eggs in places protected from dirt, pets and debris. If intended for consumption, don’t leave hard-cooked Easter eggs unrefrigerated for more than two hours. Wash hands often when handling them.
Egg Safety
Shell eggs have a natural protective barrier that protects a developing baby chick’s life-support system inside. The risk is small, but Salmonella enteritidis can still be present inside or outside a sound, clean shell.
Buy clean, uncracked eggs from the grocery refrigerator case, observing the sell-by date. Refrigerate at a temperature below 40 degrees F but above freezing. Store eggs unwashed, in the original carton.
The Egg Safety Center and the Food and Drug Administration advise never to eat raw or undercooked eggs or products containing them, since they may harbor harmful pathogens. They recommend cooking until the whites are set and the yolks are firm. Egg whites coagulate between 144 and 149 degrees F and the yolks between 149 and 158 degrees F. Foods that contain raw eggs should be cooked to 160 degrees F.
If a recipe calls for undercooked or raw eggs, one solution is to use Davidson’s Safest Choice® Pasteurized Eggs, which are treated in-shell to destroy Salmonella and other bacteria. USDA certified, they are kosher certified by the Orthodox Union and are Halal certified. These eggs are recommended for the elderly, the very young and individuals with compromised immune systems.
RECIPES
Susan’s Classic Deviled Eggs
Add a creative touch to this recipe. For an Asian accent, substitute Kikkoman’s Wasabi Sauce for the mustard and Tabasco. Shredded shiso leaves (perilla) replace the other herbs. Without a traditional deviled egg plate, line a large serving platter with a nest of tender lettuce leaves.
12 peeled hard-cooked eggs (see Hard-Cooked Eggs recipe)
1/4 cup light mayonnaise
2 tablespoons sour cream or Greek yogurt
1 tablespoon prepared mustard (Dijon or yellow), or to taste
2 to 3 teaspoons tangy cider vinegar, to taste
fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
1 to 2 dashes Tabasco
2 tablespoons minced fresh herbs, like chives, chervil or marjoram
Slice peeled eggs lengthwise and put the yolks into a large bowl. Put the whites into deviled egg plates or on a large serving platter. Press yolks through a fine sieve or mash well with the back of a fork. Stir in remaining ingredients including 1 tablespoon of the herbs. Taste and adjust seasonings, as desired. Spoon filling into the egg white shells or pipe it in with a pastry bag and 12-inch star tube. Garnish with remaining herbs. Serve at once or cover and refrigerate until serving time. Makes 24 pieces.
“An egg is the sun’s light refracted into life.”
Harold McGee
Cajun Deviled Eggs
This recipe is adapted from Cajun-Creole Cooking, by Terry Thompson-Anderson. Deviled ham adds a unique flavor; buy the Underwood brand or substitute homemade. This recipe can be doubled for a crowd. Unique flavor touches like prepared horseradish, minced herbs and green onion or pickled okra can be added instead of the sweet relish and pimentos.
12 peeled hard-cooked eggs (see Hard-Cooked Eggs recipe)
1/2 (4 1/2-ounce) can deviled ham
1 heaping tablespoon sweet pickle relish
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
2 to 3 teaspoons sugar, to taste
1 tablespoon prepared mustard (Dijon or yellow), or to taste
1/4 teaspoon Tabasco
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
paprika
sliced pickled okra or pimento-stuffed olives
Slice peeled eggs lengthwise and put the yolks into a large bowl. Put the whites on a large serving platter. Mash yolks with the back of a fork then stir in the remaining ingredients except paprika and okra. Taste and adjust seasonings, as desired. Spoon filling into the egg whites or pipe it in with a pastry bag and 12-inch star tube. Sprinkle with paprika. Top each stuffed egg with a slice of okra. Serve at once or cover and refrigerate until serving time. Makes 24 pieces.
Curried Egg Salad Sandwich
Egg Salad Week was started by the American Egg Board to promote ways to use leftover Easter eggs. It lasts a full week beginning the Monday after Easter. Filling can be made ahead and is also good stuffed into pita pockets and croissants or spread on Panera’s incredible Tomato Basil Bread.
1/3 to 1/2 cup light mayonnaise
1 rounded teaspoon Dijon mustard
2 to 3 teaspoons cider vinegar, to taste
3/4 to 1 teaspoon curry powder, to taste
1 to 2 slices cooked, chopped quality bacon
1 tablespoon minced green onion
1 trimmed stalk finely chopped celery
2 tablespoons plump golden raisins
2 tablespoons toasted sliced almonds
6 extra-large, peeled, hard-cooked eggs (see Hard-Cooked Eggs recipe)
fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
6 slices fresh whole wheat or rye bread, toasted, if desired
about 1 1/2 cups baby arugula or cilantro leaves
In a big bowl, blend mayonnaise, mustard, vinegar and curry powder. Stir in bacon, green onion, celery, raisins and almonds. Coarsely chop eggs and combine with the mixture. Add salt and pepper. Spread filling evenly over 3 slices of bread; scatter tops with arugula. Cover with remaining bread slices. Cut in half; serve at once.
Shirred Eggs with Fresh Herbs
Linda Hiltner says that eggs star in some of her favorite recipes. They can be put together quickly for dinner after a full day at the shop. Eggs are one item she always has on hand in the refrigerator. Egg-friendly ingredients are there too – a chunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano, heavy cream, half & half, unsalted butter, fresh garlic and a loaf of leftover French bread in the freezer. Linda’s garden is filled with herbs – flat-leaf parsley, rosemary, thyme and Mediterranean bay – which complement eggs. She improvises liberally with this recipe and suggests other variations as well.
2 tablespoons minced, fresh flat-leaf parsley
1/2 teaspoon each minced fresh rosemary and fresh thyme leaves
1/2 teaspoon minced fresh garlic
2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano (or other quality Parmesan)
6 extra-large eggs
2 tablespoons heavy cream or half & half (more if needed), divided
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, divided
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
diagonally-sliced toasted French bread, drizzled with olive oil
Preheat broiler; put oven rack 6 inches below heating element. Prepare and organize all the ingredients. In a small bowl, combine minced herbs, garlic and Parmigiano; set aside. Crack 3 eggs into each of 2 small bowls, without breaking the yolks. Set aside. Put 2 individual gratin dishes or similar small, oval baking dishes on a heavy baking sheet. Put half the cream and half the butter in each dish. Place under the broiler 2 to 3 minutes, until hot and bubbly. Gently slip 3 eggs into each hot dish; sprinkle with the reserved herb mixture, salt and pepper. Broil 3 to 5 minutes until egg whites are almost cooked, rotating baking sheet for even cooking. Don’t overbake — eggs continue to cook slightly when removed from the oven and they taste best when the yolks are runny. Serve hot with toasted French bread and a glass of wine.
Basic Omelette
An omelette is like a basic black dress that can be dressed up or down with brilliant accessories – or in this case, fillings. For incomparable flavor, use USDA certified organic eggs from free-range hens that are fed premium feed. Fillings might include colorful steamed, stir-fried or roasted spring vegetables, creamed spinach with crisp bacon or avocado with Monterey Jack, cilantro and fresh salsa.
about 1/3 cup shredded cheese or other omelet filling, if desired
2 to 3 extra-large eggs
1 tablespoons water or milk
fine sea salt and ground black pepper, to taste
1 tablespoon fresh minced herbs like tarragon, chives or basil
1 teaspoon quality olive oil
2 teaspoons unsalted butter, divided
Prepare cheese or filling, if desired. Whisk eggs, water, salt, pepper and herbs thoroughly with a fork. Heat a 7- to 8-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, add olive oil and 1 teaspoon butter. Swirl sizzling pan and pour in eggs. Reduce heat slightly. With a heatproof spatula, gently stir eggs around the center, about 30 seconds, using a circular motion. When soft curds begin to form, stop stirring; make certain the eggs are spread evenly over the pan. Adjust heat to prevent browning. Shake omelet in the pan 1 or 2 times to loosen. Add filling on the side across from the handle. Tilt the pan, allowing the filling side to slide onto the serving plate. Tip the pan further to turn out the top part, folding the omelet in half. Top with remaining butter. Serves 1 to 2 people.
Golden Egg Custard Pie
This old Southern pie has long been a favorite on the Sunday dinner table. Eggs are the primary thickener in custard pies. Yolks add richness and keep the custard silky smooth. For good color, use organic brown eggs with deep orange-yellow yolks, high in lecithin. After partially baking the pastry to prevent soggy crust, it’s important to cool down the oven to 350 degrees before adding the pie. An option to prebaking is to brush the unbaked pastry lightly inside with egg white, then pour in the filling.
4 large eggs
2 1/2 cups half & half
1/2 to 2/3 cup sugar, to taste
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 or 2 dashes freshly grated nutmeg
1 9-inch chilled pie crust (homemade, refrigerated pastry or frozen crust)
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a large bowl, whisk together all the filling ingredients except the pastry shell; set aside. Fit a round piece of parchment or foil inside the cold pastry shell, cut about 2-inches larger than the pan. Spread pie weights or dry beans over the bottom. Bake 8 to 10 minutes until pastry sets and begins to look dry. Cool 3 minutes; remove beans and liner. Reduce oven to 350 degrees. Put pastry back on the middle oven rack. Carefully pour in egg mixture. Bake about 45 minutes or just until custard sets and tests clean with the tip of a small knife. If pastry edges are browning excessively, cover lightly with foil strips. Cool pie 1 hour before serving. Chill leftovers. Serves 8.
It’s Good to Be a Square
“This isn’t ‘eggs-actly’ a recipe,” says Beverly Tuller, owner of Mary & Martha’s, “but it is a fun way to make square eggs.” Buy a special Egg Cuber to press a warm, peeled, hard-cooked egg into a square shape. Square eggs won’t roll away and these deviled eggs will be the talk of the table. Even the yolks will be square. Egg Cubers are available at Mary & Martha’s at 4711-16 Forest Drive in Columbia.
Beverly also shares an idea for making one or a dozen deviled egg chicks. At the narrow end of a hard-cooked egg, cut about 1/3 off to form a cap. Gently scoop out yolk, reserving white part. Mix yolk with mayonnaise and seasonings for a creamy consistency. Stuff back into the large portion of the egg white, mounding the top. Arrange the egg white cap at a perky angle to form the chick. Decorate the deviled egg face with black olive pieces for eyes and a small carrot sliver for a nose. Trim a thin piece off the large bottom to make the egg stand.
