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  • October 2020

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Chow Down

By Helen Dennis

Photography by Emily Clay

Homemade chow chow is a classic, Southern, pickle-based condiment composed of a variety of the garden’s bounty with a sharp flavor full of spices.

The smell and taste of a nostalgic food can transport us to simpler times and memories of family gathered for large meals. One such food is the classic relish, chow chow. The sharp smell of pickles contrasts with the warm spices and sweet brine, all rounded out with a crisp bite. If this food sounds more foreign than familiar, chow chow is a mixed base pickle that pulls together a variety of ingredients and flavors to create a delicious condiment. While chow chow may be considered a classic, room for it still exists in the modern Southern kitchen. This lesser known member of the pickle family is great stirred into chicken salad, as a zesty addition to a hot dog bar, or as a unique topping to fried fish.

Whereas a traditional North American pickle relish primarily features chopped cucumbers, chow chow incorporates vegetables from all around the garden. A quick flip through Southern cookbooks shows that chow chow can include a wide variety of the garden’s bounty. From expected cucumbers and green tomatoes to cauliflower, chow chow can incorporate so many different kinds of produce. The classic cookbook Housekeeping in Old Virginia contains six different recipes, showing the number of directions that chow chow can go.

What remains consistent across various recipes is the sharp flavor full of spices. Many pickles have a sharp taste with bright herbs, like dill or mustard. Chow chow, on the other hand, uses warmer flavors like cinnamon, nutmeg, and turmeric.

Chow Chow Recipe

½ pound of green tomatoes
1 pound of English cucumber
½ pound of onion
1 pound of cabbage
¼ cup salt
2 cups vinegar
¾ cup brown sugar
1 ½ teaspoons celery seed
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground nutmeg

Chop tomatoes, cucumber, onion, and cabbage into half-inch pieces. Mix vegetables together in a large bowl and add salt. Pack tightly into a container, cover, and let sit overnight. In the morning, drain off the liquid. Combine vinegar, sugar, celery seed, turmeric, nutmeg, and cinnamon in a medium pot over high heat. Stir ingredients until they begin to boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Add 3 ½ cups of the chopped vegetables to the pot, and simmer for another 10 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to pack canning jars with the vegetables. Pour the vinegar mixture over vegetables, leaving ¼  inch at the top. Close the jars with a lid and seal with a 10-minute water bath.

Spicy Variation: Kick the classic chow chow recipe into high gear with some spice. Follow the recipe for classic chow chow, but add 1 tablespoon of red pepper flakes.

Chow Chow Deviled Eggs

6 hard boiled eggs
¼ cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons chow chow
Flaky salt, for topping
Paprika, for topping

Slice each egg lengthwise and remove the yolk. Using a mesh sieve, push the yolk through. Stir in mayonnaise and chow chow. Pipe back into egg whites. Sprinkle flaky salt and paprika just before serving.

Loaded Southern Hot Dog

Hot dogs
Hot dog buns
Pimento cheese
Chow chow

Grill hot dogs until heated through and slightly charred. Spread a thin layer of pimento cheese on the buns and place the freshly grilled hot dog on top so that the cheese begins to melt. Top with chow chow, and dig in!

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